Event Day Checklist!
In association with Cycle Superstore
You’ve clocked up the training miles and your bike is ready to go. Is there anything that needs to be done at the last minute? The friendly team in Cycle Superstore give some last-minute advice.
Night Before
To help eliminate or reduce any pre-event nerves or stress, we suggest you complete the following checklist:
- Get your cycling kit ready the night before. As it’s going to be a long day, plan for every eventuality. Don’t leave anything to chance. As the saying goes: “It’s better to be looking at something than looking for something”.
- Always pump up your tyres the night before to ensure there are no slow leaks.
- Check over your saddle bag. Check the quality of the spare tubes, that there is no rips or tears in them. You’ll be amazed how many people pick up a puncture only to discover their spare tubes are not fit for purpose. Also check your pump is working.
- Something you should also try and pack in your saddle bag is Rear Derailleur Hanger. The hanger is a sacrificial part located at your rear mech and costs in the region of €20-€40. It is designed to deliberately break to limit or prevent damage to the bike frame or other components. As each bike model has its own unique hanger, the likelihood of the event support vehicle having your type is remote.
For more information on what you should pack in your saddle bag, please see CSS blog post here
The Day Itself
Don’t try anything new on the day of the event, be it clothing, energy food or even breakfast cereal. A minor change or trying something new on the day can ruin the event for you. Arrive to the start line with a clean bike and clean drive train. As they say, a clean bike is a fast bike, and a clean drive train will ensure your bike performs to its best.
Remember to pace yourself on the day and most importantly remember it’s not a race. The second half of the course is traditionally harder then the first half, so keep that in mind when you start. When it comes to the hills, pace yourself going up and take your time descending. The event is taking place on open roads so there will be other road users on the day. There is no shame in taking your time descending.
Make sure you take enough fuel onboard. During your training you would have established what works best for you. Even if you don’t want to stop at a food stop, our advice would be stop and at least put something in the back pocket of your jersey.
Wishing you the best of luck at this year’s event – we are looking forward to seeing you at the start line on 11th June!
Route Update 2023
We have made some slight changes to the 100km and 200km routes. The links below will take you to the updated 100km and 200km routes, plus the ability to download a GPX file.
To download the GPX file (or an alternative file type):
- Click the Plotaroute link below.
- The map of the route will be displayed.
- Underneath the map, click on the button saying ‘Download’.
- Then select the ‘GPX’ option to download to your device.
W100km: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2098633
W200km: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2098624
Route Changes Explained
A road closure for critical road works has been extended, and we have had to change the start of both the W200 and the W100 routes.
The original route:
Went from Bray Emmetts along the Ballyman road to Enniskerry and onto Glencullen via the Devils Elbow.
The changed route:
Now goes from Bray Emmetts to Rathichael, into Kilternan and onto Glencullen.
This adds an additional 7km to the both routes.
We look forward to seeing you in Wicklow for a great weekend of Cycling!
Important Safety Message: Respect
In order for the Wicklow 200 to be held every year, we need the cooperation of everyone involved – the cyclists, the local communities, the emergency services, Gardai and the 400 volunteers.
As we are all in this together, we have to respect everyone on the day of the cycle.
We are asking you – the cyclists – to make the day enjoyable for everyone by thinking about the following:
1. Respect other road users
- All roads will be open and busy.
- Please only cycle two-abreast, obey the rules of the road and be courteous to fellow cyclists.
2. Respect Marshals
- We have over 400 volunteer marshals on the day of the cycle.
- Please follow their instructions and if requested to stop please do so.
3. Respect Fellow Cyclists
- With over 3,000 cyclists taking part the roads will be busy.
- Not everyone is an experienced cyclist so give people space and encouragement.
- When cycling in a club group, be mindful of passing out other cyclists and give them space as required.
- Encourage cyclists of all abilities.
If we all follow these three simple rules we will have an enjoyable and safe day for the Wicklow 200!
Thank you for your co-operation.
Registration Times 2023
Before you start Wicklow 200, you will need to pick up your pack at registration. Registration is available at these times and locations:
Cycle Superstore (D24 AW96)
Friday 9th June: 4pm to 7.30pm
Saturday 10th June: 10am to 3pm
Bray Emmets GAA Club (A98 NP03)
Sunday 12th June: 5:30am to 6:30am sharp
You will not receive a text with your race number this year, but will need to bring the email you received (sent from Eventmaster) confirming your entry and that contains a unique QR code. If you cannot find this email, our team can help you when you arrive at registration.
Please note, that due to the event start time of 7am, the pack pick-up at Bray Emmets on Sunday (event day morning) will close at 6.30am on the dot!
It is essential that you collect your Wicklow 200 pack from one of the registration locations as it contains some important information for you:
- W200 envelope
- Bike plate
- Bike sticker
- Wristband
- Info doc
You will need to display the bike plate, sticker and wristband to gain access to the event and the food stations.
Don’t forget your Goodie Bag!
Cycling Jerseys
When it comes to selecting your jersey, you have an array of options and that’s even before you select the sleeve length! A cycling jersey will keep you warm in cold weather and cooler in warm weather. It will help keep you comfortable on the bike, prevent sunburn and give you a place to store most things you need to carry (banana, energy bar, packable jacket, coffee money, phone, and tissues!). Please prevent injury by not carrying your pump in your back pocket! Get it mounted on the bike.
Jerseys come in different styles and cuts, and you can spend anything from €50 to €200 plus on one. Before you choose a jersey, we strongly advise you to wear a base layer underneath to help wick away the sweat. Compared to a normal t-shirt, road jerseys typically have a longer back, shorter front and a higher neck shape and sleeves shaped to fit when in the bike position. There is a lot of variations in how closely a cycling jersey fits. Unless you plan on going racing, you won’t require a jersey that is too tight. This style of jersey is designed for speed and won’t have any excess fabric flapping about and are usually referred to as an aero jersey or race cut.
Most jerseys are made from a synthetic fabric which is designed to carry sweat away from your skin so it can evaporate from the outside of the jersey. This is where a jersey will always trump a normal t-shirt. A t-shirt will simply soak your sweat (moisture) and retain it next to your skin. This will become very apparent if your t-shirt is made from cotton. The moisture retained by your t-shirt will cool down in a breeze making you feel chilly and uncomfortable on the bike.
When picking a jersey, have a look at its label to see which other materials are contained in it. If you have the option, choose one which contains a natural material like merino wool. This is a natural fibre grown by merino sheep. It’s thinner and softer than regular wool- making it easy to wear next to skin. It offers many of the same properties as that of synthetic material, however its big advantage is its ability to combat odour. Over time a jersey made from synthetic material which is washed regularly will no longer be able to stave off the odour and you may end up having to replace it.
One thing you are guaranteed with a cycling jersey is a zip. You can have a full length, half length or a short. Which style you choose, boils down to the individual preferences. A short zip may look tidy; however, you may want more ventilation if it’s warm. Ideally choose one which has YKK zip (you don’t want zip failure while out).
Finally, if you plan on wearing your jersey in sunny conditions, try to identify the jersey’s SPF (Sun Protection Factor). Some modern fabrics now come with built in SPF protection.
| Style | Definition | Example | Click |
| Active/Comfort Fit | Is more relaxed for a leisure riding position. Perfect for those weekend cafe rides or those new to cycling | BL Duna Women’s Short Sleeve €41.30 | HERE |
| Performance/Athletic Cut | Has a more fitted cut, then an active cut. The fabric sits close to the body for a performance-minded riding position. Ideal for training or those faster club rides | Endura FS 260 Print Short Sleeve €79.99 | HERE |
| Race | A race cut will feel very short on the body and tight. Aimed at those people looking to go racing | Assos RS Aero SS ‘The Myth Within’ Short Sleeve Jersey €200 | HERE |
Cycle Superstore’s full range of cycling jerseys can be found HERE
Picking the Right Jacket
In association with Cycle Super Store
When it comes to choosing a cycling jacket, the saying ‘One size fits all’ does not apply. Selecting your jacket depends on the weather condition you’ll be riding your bike in. The two most common types of jackets available on the market are ‘Rain’ or ‘Wind Proof’ jacket. So, what’s the difference between the two types?
Even on a relatively still day, when riding you’re a bike you will generate a significant breeze. This breeze stops you from building up a nice layer of warm air which keeps you insulated and protected from the elements. This breeze can also result in you becoming chilly especially on dry winter days, taking the edge off this chill is essential. Even though there have been great advancements in clothing technology in recent years there hasn’t been a jacket that can do both. Some people will try to wear a rain jacket to keep the wind off them, but this tactic can do the opposite to what you want the jacket to do.
Breathability is the key word and here is why. Rain jackets by their design have taped seams to keep the rain out. However, if the breathability of the jacket is quite poor these taped seams will prevent any sweat from evaporating making you feel you’re wearing a bin liner and becoming a boil in the bag. The wind jacket will help you build up the layer of warm air, keeping you toasty while level of breathability will allow your sweat to evaporate prevent you from getting that clammy feeling. Wind proof jackets are usually packable meaning they can be folded up and put into one of jersey pockets. They are ideal for cool morning starts and can be easily stowed in your jersey pocket and can be slipped back on for those long cold descents.
Rain jackets by their nature will have a long back with a grippy seem on the bottom to prevent the jacket moving up your back and will have tight cuffs and a high neck. When it comes to a rain jacket, you have two options a hard or soft shell. Most high-quality waterproof jackets are a hard shell and are designed to withstand the worst of the wet weather. The hard-shell jacket tries to prevent moisture coming in contact with your skin. This combined with the windchill of riding can quickly turn a pleasant cycle into a horrible one. The softshell jacket is an excellent versatile alternative to a fully waterproof hard shell. However, they are not designed to withstand a prolonged deluge and are only ideal for a quick shower. Their big plus over a hardshell is that they can offer more breathability and can be easily folded down and placed in your back pocket. This is something their hard shells cousins can’t.
| Waterproof Rating (mm) | Water Resistance Provided | Conditions |
| 0-5,000mm | No resistance to some resistance | Light rain, dry snow, no pressure |
| 6,000-10,000 mm | Rainproof and waterproof under light pressure. | Light rain, average snow, light pressure. |
| 11,000-15,000 mm | Rainproof and waterproof except under high pressure. | Moderate rain, average snow, light pressure. |
| 16,000-20,000 mm | Rainproof and waterproof under high pressure. | Heavy rain, wet snow, some pressure |
| 20,000 mm+ | Rainproof and waterproof under very high pressure | Heavy rain, wet snow, high pressure |
Whatever option you go for (hard or soft) always look for the jackets rain rating. This demonstrates how long the jacket will stay waterproof depending on the volume.
| Road | ||||||||
| Brand/Model | Mens/Womens Version | Wind Proof | Packable | Breathable | Waterproof Rating | Colour | Price | Link |
| BL Stelvio | Both | Yes | Yes | Yes | N/A | Fluio Yellow | €59.90 | HERE |
| BL Normandia_E | Both | Yes | Yes | Yes | 10,000 | Black | €89.90 | HERE |
| Endura Xtract | Both | Yes | Yes | 5,000 | 5,000 | Blue, Black, Yellow or Green | €84.99 | HERE |
| Endura FS260 Adrenaline Race II Jacket | Mens | N/A | Yes | 20,000 | 15,000 | Fluro +Various | €94.99 | HERE |
| Endura Pro SL Waterproof | Mens | N/A | Yes | 60,000 | 20,000 | Black, Yellow | €239.99 | HERE |
| Assos Equipe RS Targa | Yes | Yes | Yes | N/A | N/A | Various | €345 | HERE |
Bicycle Shorts
In association with Cycle Super Store
Now spring is finally here, it’s time to ditch those bib tights and winter clothing. Something that can be underestimated is a good quality pair of cycling shorts. A good pair of cycling shorts will make cycling long distances much more comfortable and provide cushioning and relief for your sensitive bits! So, what should you look out for when purchasing a pair of cycling shorts?
Before we start talking about shorts, the golden rule for cycling shorts is to wear them au naturel. In other words, you should not wear any underwear under your cycling shorts. The pad or chamois/chammy is designed to sit next to the skin. Adding an extra layer will inevitably lead to friction which can lead to chaffing/irritation and prevent the pad from doing the job it’s supposed to do
When it comes to shorts you have two design options open to you, bib shorts or waist shorts. Both designs have their pros and cons, and it usually boils down to individual’s preference. Bib shorts have two straps at the top of the short which go over your shoulders like braces securing them in place. The reason for the straps is to ensure the shorts stay in place preventing chafing or saddle sore. This style of short is designed not to restrict your breathing during those lung busting cycles or press on your bladder.
Waist shorts do have their benefits. By having less material they are more effective in keeping you cool and sometimes you just want the breeze up your back. They have the added benefit of being easier to remove for a toilet break (especially for women). That’s not to say they don’t have their issues. In some cases, the waist band can act like a sponge and soak up sweat which some people may find uncomfortable against their skin. However, the biggest issue people have with waist shorts is they are not guaranteed to stay in place, something the bib short is able to do.
So is there anything else you need to look out for? Cycling short manufacturers will often characterise their shorts for how long a ride they are designed for. This could come in the form of a thicker pad, or how the pad is sewn onto the shorts. Most short manufacturers will have different ranges which have offer benefits over each other, but these differences are usually reflected in the price.
Something else worth considering is Chamois Creme. It is designed to provide prolonged comfort in the saddle and increase the life of your chamois and your ride time. It does this by decreasing friction and avoids bacterial and fungal infections on your skin.
See Cycle Superstore’s range of chamois and anti friction cream HERE.
Base Layers: The Starting Point For Your Cycling Wardrobe
Our friends at Cycle Superstore give their take on different items of clothing you should have in your wardrobe and what you should look out for when purchasing these items.
First up is Base Layers, something which is often overlooked and underappreciated. When it comes to putting your cycling kit on, you should think of it as an onion (layer upon layer but hopefully without the eye watering). The foundation should be the base layer. Its main purpose is to help regulate your body temperature and help your body’s natural defences against overheating. In the summer, it will wick away the sweat and keep you cool and, in the winter, it will keep you warm without the clammy feeling.
When it comes to choosing a particular base layer, there is an array of options available on the market. All the clothing manufacturers will offer base layers designed for a specific time of the year. However, irrespective of the time of year, the base layer should be tight fitting. The tight nature of the fitting will trap air between you and the clothing and prevent cold air getting in, especially during the winter months.
Most base layers are made from either a man-made fabric (like polyester) or a natural material (like merino wool). Both materials have their advantages over one another. Base layers, containing man made materials, are usually high performance in nature and aimed at warm weather conditions, when sweat management and cooling effects are important.
A natural material commonly used in base layers is merino wool. This is a natural fiber grown by merino sheep. It’s thinner and softer than regular wool – making it easy to wear next to skin. It offers the same properties as man made fabric, however, its other advantage is its ability to cancel out odours.
There is an array of styles and cuts to choose from. Manufacturers will offer you the option of sleeveless, short sleeve or full sleeve. Which one you choose is down to an individual’s own preference, however pay attention for tightness under the armpits, which may occur if you are wearing a short sleeve version when you assume the cycling position. As it will be against your skin, it’s imperative you are comfortable with it, so some manufacturers offer a seamless option giving you a frictionless feel next to your skin.
Whatever design or material you choose for your base layer, our advice is always the same. Wear a base layer all year round.
Get Your Bike Ready
Your bike has been out of sight – and probably out of mind – for the last few months. So what should you look out for before taking it out for the first time after its enforced hibernation?
Give the bike an M Check. It’s named for the rough pattern you follow from front to back. Start at the front wheel, move up the handlebars, down to the bottom bracket, back up to the saddle then down to the rear wheel. The longer you spend looking at the bike, the more likely you are to spot any issues, so give it the TLC it’s been missing for the last few months with a really attentive clean and lube. You’ll feel better about yourself, and the bike will be all the better for it. Watch the M Check video here
Tyres
If your bike has been laid up for a while, check your tyres. The same properties that make a good tyre grippy mean that over time it can perish. Usually this will be a minor deterioration, but in extreme cases, it could be a safety issue – not to mention making punctures more likely. Rubber perishes and is usually the result of environmental factors such as hot temperature or excessive exposure to sunlight or materials you’ve ridden through. Check your tyres for rapid loss of pressure and any visible cracks or hardening in the rubber. Especially where the tyre has been in contact with the ground during storage
Drivetrain
Even if your bike has been kept out of the rain, condensation can create enough dampness to promote rust – particularly on any surfaces where scratches or wear have exposed the metal. Give particular attention to moving components including the drivetrain and brakes. Check that the chain hasn’t rusted (a good reason to clean off all that accumulated grease and grit if you haven’t already) and that all the links are moving freely. If you’re a regular rider, a new chain is always a good way to start the new year – you’ll feel the difference.
When a bike is stored in a crowded space like the family garage or shed, it’s not unusual for it to get a few knocks over the course of a winter, so take a good look at the rear mech. The dangly bits are a weak point and the derailleur could be misaligned, which can in turn lead to failure of the rear hanger. It’s designed to break relatively easily in order to prevent more serious and costly damage elsewhere – but at the very least, a failed hanger is going to spoil your day. If you’re not confident with the oily bits of your bike, there’s no substitute for a proper inspection by a qualified bike mechanic
Cables
Rust is not just restricted to your drive train. Condensation or moisture can also get onto your brakes and gear cables. This moisture will speed up for the deterioration of the cables. In some cases, moisture on cables has turned into ice/frost leading to some serious consequences. We always suggest replacing your brake and gear cables at least once a year.
Wheels
Quick release skewers are a wonderful thing, but they can become loose – or you may have neglected to re-tighten them fully that last time you stowed the bike in your car boot. It goes without saying that you don’t want your wheels to fall off, so a good wheel check is Priority Number One before hitting the road. While you’re there, check that both wheels are true and turning freely, and give each spoke the time-honoured tap to make sure it’s secure. Take the time to adjust brake clearances – it can be fiddly, but well-adjusted brakes are a major contributor to a comfortable (and safe) ride. Ideally, replace brake blocks – you’ll be needing them this summer.
For more information on Cycle Superstore’s bike repair workshop, click here
Thank you to Cycle Superstore for this latest Blog post